Log:

Probably the best known ski tour in Europe, if not the world, is the Haute Route between Chamonix in France and Zermatt in Switzerland. Our mountain guides were Brian Hall and Jon de Montjoye. We took just over 6 days to complete the route and went via Verbier. The weather which was pretty good the whole way, which was lucky for us.

We started in Argentiere (1251 m) by taking the lifts up to the Grand Montets (3250 m). From here we skied down to the Argentiere Glacier and then up the Chardonnet Glacier to the Col du Chardonnet (3323 m). The steep descent from here was aided by a rope so that we could abseil-cum-sideslip down. Then on to the Fenetre de Saleina (3261 m) and over to the Cabane du Trient (3170 m) for the first night.

The next day we skied to the village of Champex (1465 m) via the Col des Ecandies (2796 m), with the slope down from the col having more moguls than you would see on black runs in most ski resorts! Obviously the only way down and very popular. From Champex the snow ran out so we were ferried in taxis to Verbier (1490 m). Here we used the lifts to get above the Cabane du Mont Fort (2457 m) so that we could ski down to it for our second night.

From the hut we headed over the Col du Momin (3003 m) and on to Rosablanche (3336 m). A short detour saw us on the top in a few minutes. Then down to the Cabane de Prafleuri (2624 m) refuge where we had to fend for ourselves (no guardian to cook for us).

The fourth day started by skiing across the slopes above the frozen Lac des Dix (2360 m), covered in fresh avalanche debris and difficult to ski through. Then a steepish slope saw us above the Cabane des Dix (2928 m) with a good slope to ski down to reach the busy hut. Fantastic views all around from here.

The fifth day started early, as usual, and we headed up steep and crevassed slopes overlooking the very impressive Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3870 m). At the top of this slope was a large plateau which heli-skiers were using as a drop-off point to ski back to Arolla in the valley below. It seemed somewhat perverse that it had taken us 5 days to reach the point they had reached in 5 minutes! We dumped our gear and quickly skied up to the top of the Pigne d'Arolla (3796 m). The weather started to turn and we skied down in cloud to the Cabane des Vignettes (3160 m). This has a very impressive position on top of high cliffs, and the outside toilet is the most impressive of all!

The sixth day we needed crampons just to get out of the hut door because of the sheet ice. Once across this we changed to skis. We had 3 cols to cross (Col de l'Eveque 3392 m; Col du Mont Brule 3213 m; Col de Valpelline 3568 m) to reach the Schonbielhutte (2694 m) for our last night in the mountains. A long day which ended with us sitting on the terrace of the Schonbiel hut sipping beer looking straight across the valley at the north face of the Matterhorn (4478 m). Quite a way to end the day.

Our last morning was pretty easy and all downhill. A short ski found us on the edge of the Zermatt pisted ski area so we stopped at the first chalet restaurant for a celebratory drink. Then had a leisurely ski down to the flesh pots of Zermatt (1614 m)!

Cameras: Nikon FM2 35mm camera + 28 mm lens to start with but the shutter blades broke on the first day, so I bought a small Nikon AF2 35mm compact camera in Verbier so that I could continue taking mountain photos. The Nikon AF2 went back for repair after just 6 months (the rewind mechanism broke). I bought a Mamiya 6 MF and sold all my Nikon gear after this!
Film: Ilford FP4 and 100 Delta 35 mm